Denali

How to Get There

From Anchorage (240 mi): Take AK-1 N briefly, then merge onto AK-3 N (George Parks Highway) and continue north for about 240 miles to reach the park entrance

Overview

Denali (also known as Mount McKinley, its former official name) is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level. With a topographic prominence of 20,194 feet (6,155 m) and a topographic isolation of 4,621.1 miles (7,436.9 km), Denali is the third most prominent and third most isolated peak on Earth, after Mount Everest and Aconcagua. Located in the Alaska Range in the interior of Alaska, Denali is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.

The Koyukon people who inhabit the area around the mountain have referred to the peak as "Denali" for centuries. In 1896, a gold prospector named it "Mount McKinley" in support of then-presidential candidate William McKinley; that name was the official name recognized by the federal government of the United States from 1917 until 2015. In August 2015, 40 years after Alaska had done so, the United States Department of the Interior announced the change of the official name of the mountain to Denali.

In 1903, James Wickersham recorded the first attempt at climbing Denali, which was unsuccessful. The first verifiable ascent to Denali's summit was achieved on June 7, 1913, by climbers Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, and Robert Tatum, who went by the South Summit. In 1951, Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, considered to be the safest and easiest route, and therefore the most popular currently in use.

Geology and features

Denali is a granitic pluton, mostly pink quartz monzonite, lifted by tectonic pressure from the subduction of the Pacific Plate beneath the North American Plate; at the same time, the sedimentary material above and around the mountain was stripped away by erosion. The forces that lifted Denali also caused many deep earthquakes in Alaska and the Aleutian Islands. The Pacific Plate is seismically active beneath Denali, a tectonic region that is known as the "McKinley cluster".

Denali has a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level, making it the highest peak in North America and the northernmost mountain above 6,000 meters elevation in the world. Measured from base to peak at some 18,000 ft (5,500 m), it is among the largest mountains situated entirely above sea level. Denali rises from a sloping plain with elevations from 1,000 to 3,000 ft (300 to 910 m), for a base-to-peak height of 17,000 to 19,000 ft (5,000 to 6,000 m). By comparison, Mount Everest rises from the Tibetan Plateau at a much higher base elevation. Base elevations for Everest range from 13,800 ft (4,200 m) on the south side to 17,100 ft (5,200 m) on the Tibetan Plateau, for a base-to-peak height in the range of 12,000 to 15,300 ft (3,700 to 4,700 m). Denali's base-to-peak height is little more than half the 33,500 ft (10,200 m) of the volcano Mauna Kea, which lies mostly under water.

Geography of the mountain

Denali has two significant summits: the South Summit is the higher one, while the North Summit has an elevation of 19,470 ft (5,934 m) and a prominence of approximately 1,270 ft (387 m). The North Summit is sometimes counted as a separate peak; it is rarely climbed, except by those doing routes on the north side of the massif.

Five large glaciers flow off the slopes of the mountain. The Peters Glacier lies on the northwest side of the massif, while the Muldrow Glacier falls from its northeast slopes. Just to the east of the Muldrow, and abutting the eastern side of the massif, is the Traleika Glacier. The Ruth Glacier lies to the southeast of the mountain, and the Kahiltna Glacier leads up to the southwest side of the mountain. With a length of 44 mi (71 km), the Kahiltna Glacier is the longest glacier in the Alaska Range.

The mountain is regularly climbed today. In 2003, around 58% of climbers reached the top. But by that time, the mountain had claimed the lives of nearly 100 mountaineers over time. The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn, after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend Denali. It is one of the Seven Summits; summiting all of them is a challenge for mountaineers.

Overview

Denali is the highest mountain in North America, rising to 20,310 feet (6,190 meters) above sea level in the Alaska Range. Formerly known as Mount McKinley, Denali is one of the famed Seven Summits and is widely considered one of the most demanding mountaineering objectives in the world. Although the standard route involves relatively limited technical climbing, the mountain's extreme cold, severe storms, massive glacial terrain, altitude, and expedition-style logistics make it a formidable challenge.

Unlike peaks such as Mount Hood or Mount Rainier, Denali is a true high-altitude wilderness expedition. Climbers must haul heavy loads, live on glaciers for several weeks, establish camps, and wait for weather windows while operating in an arctic environment. The mountain's enormous vertical rise and remote location contribute significantly to its difficulty.

Summit Route Options

Route	Difficulty	Overview
West Buttress	Strenuous	The standard route used by most climbers and guided expeditions, combining glacier travel, fixed lines, and high-altitude camping.
West Rib	Advanced	A steeper and more technical alternative requiring greater snow and ice climbing skills.
Cassin Ridge	Expert	One of North America's most celebrated alpine routes involving technical rock, snow, and ice climbing.
Muldrow Glacier	Advanced	A historic route requiring complex glacier navigation and extended wilderness travel.

Typical West Buttress Expedition

• Starting Point: Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp (approximately 7,200 feet).
• Summit Elevation: 20,310 feet.
• Elevation Gain: Approximately 13,000 feet from base camp.
• Duration: Typically 17 to 22 days.
• Route Style: Multi-week expedition with load carries and progressive camps.
• Terrain: Glaciers, fixed ropes, exposed ridges, snow slopes, and high-altitude camps.
• Required Skills: Glacier travel, crampon techniques, ice axe use, crevasse rescue knowledge, and expedition camping.

Most expeditions begin with a ski-equipped bush plane flight from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier. Climbers establish a series of camps while gradually acclimatizing, carrying loads between camps and building snow walls for protection from frequent storms. Summit day often involves 10-16 hours of climbing and descending from high camp at approximately 17,200 feet.

Typical Camp Progression

Camp	Approximate Elevation
Kahiltna Base Camp	7,200 Feet
Camp 1	7,800 Feet
Camp 2	11,200 Feet
Camp 3	14,200 Feet
High Camp	17,200 Feet
Summit	20,310 Feet

Guided Expedition Options

Experience	Typical Price	Overview
Standard Guided West Buttress Expedition	$12,500-$13,500	The most common expedition format lasting approximately three weeks.
Low-Ratio Guided Expedition	$14,000-$18,000+	Smaller guide-to-client ratios and greater individualized support.
Denali Prep Course + Expedition	$15,000-$20,000+	Combines glacier instruction and expedition training with a summit attempt.
Independent Expedition	$3,000-$6,000+	Requires extensive mountaineering experience and self-sufficient logistics.

The average cost of a guided Denali expedition is approximately $12,500-$14,000 per person. Additional expenses often include transportation to Alaska, equipment purchases, lodging, guide gratuities, and National Park Service fees.

Major Challenges and Hazards

• Extreme Cold with temperatures that can fall far below zero, even during climbing season.
• Severe Storm Systems capable of trapping climbers at camp for days.
• Heavy Loads requiring climbers to carry backpacks while hauling sleds.
• Altitude due to the summit exceeding 20,000 feet.
• Glacier Travel involving crevasses, snow bridges, and rope-team movement.
• Isolation created by the mountain's remote location deep within Alaska.

Best Time to Climb

Season	Conditions
May	Colder temperatures but generally more stable glacier travel conditions.
June	Peak climbing season with the highest number of summit attempts.
Early July	Warmer conditions but increasing crevasse exposure and weather variability.

Recommended Experience Level

Denali is not considered a beginner mountaineering objective. Most successful climbers have previous experience on peaks such as Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Aconcagua, Cotopaxi, or other glaciated and high-altitude mountains. Climbers should be comfortable with glacier travel, winter camping, hauling heavy loads, and operating independently in severe weather conditions. Many guide services recommend prior expedition mountaineering experience before attempting Denali.

Information in this article is based on expedition descriptions, route information, and pricing published by the American Alpine Institute, Alaska Mountaineering School, RMI Expeditions, and Adventure Consultants, including information on the West Buttress route, expedition logistics, climbing difficulty, and guided expedition pricing.

This article uses material from the Wikipedia article "Denali", which is released under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share-Alike License 3.0