Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument

How to Get There

From Billings (223 miles): Follow Montana Ave and I-90BL E/1st Ave N to US-87 N/Hwy 312/Main St. Follow US-87 N to MT-19 N in Fergus County. Continue straight onto MT-19 N. Continue onto US-191 N. Continue on MT-66 N. Take Cow Island Trail to Ervine Ridge Rd in Blaine County.

From Great Falls (148 miles): Take 4th St N and River Dr N to US-87 N. Turn left onto US-87 N. Continue on State Hwy 236/Judith Landing Rd. Take Cow Island Trail to Ervine Ridge Rd in Blaine County.

Overview

The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument is a monument protecting the Missouri Breaks of north central Montana. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), it is a series of badland areas characterized by rock outcroppings, steep bluffs, and grassy plains; a topography referred to as "The Breaks" by locals (as the land appears to "break away" to the river).

Created by proclamation in 2001 by President Bill Clinton on January 17, it encompasses 377,000 acres (589 sq mi; 1,526 km2), of public lands, most of which were already managed by the federal government. The adjacent Missouri River was designated a Wild and Scenic River in 1976 and forms a western boundary while the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge is to the east. The Breaks country was a model for many of the paintings done by painter Charles M. Russell.

Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area has four historic ranches within its boundaries:

History

French trappers found the area in the late 18th century peopled by Native American tribes such as the Blackfoot, Northern Cheyenne, Sioux, Assiniboine, Gros Ventre (Atsina), Crow, Plains Cree, and Plains Ojibwa. (The Crow name is Xuáhcheesh Annáppiio, "Where the Crow warrior Skunk was killed.")

The Lewis and Clark Expedition passed through the Breaks in 1805 and were the first to document the region through notes and drawings, and their sighting and documentation of bighorn sheep in the Breaks region was the first time this species was recorded in North America by white explorers. Much of the Breaks region has remained as it was when Lewis and Clark's party first saw it. The confluence of the Judith and Missouri Rivers was the setting for important peace councils in 1846 and 1855.

In 1877, the eastbound Nez Perce crossed the Missouri and entered the Breaks country in their attempt to escape to Canada. The Cow Island Skirmish occurred in the Breaks and was the last encounter prior to the Nez Perce's surrender to the U.S. Army at the Battle of Bear Paw, just north of the monument.

The Breaks is home to at least sixty mammal species and hundreds of bird species. Willows and shrubs are found along the Missouri River banks while sagebrush and short grass prairie are dominant elsewhere.

Things to Do

Explore the Wild and Scenic Missouri River Breaks

Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument protects one of the most significant landscapes in the American West. Stretching along approximately 149 miles of the Missouri River in central Montana, the monument features dramatic badlands, towering sandstone cliffs, archaeological sites, wildlife habitat, and landscapes closely associated with the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

Float the Missouri River

One of the monument's most popular activities is floating the Wild and Scenic Missouri River. Visitors can travel through remote canyons, view historic landmarks, observe wildlife, and experience scenery that remains remarkably similar to what Lewis and Clark encountered in the early nineteenth century.

Visit Pompeys Pillar and Historic Landmarks

The monument contains numerous historic and cultural sites associated with Native American history, early exploration, and western settlement. Visitors can explore significant landmarks that helped shape the history of the Missouri River corridor.

Discover Lewis and Clark Expedition Sites

Many locations within the monument were documented by the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Interpretive sites throughout the region help visitors understand the challenges, discoveries, and experiences of the Corps of Discovery as they traveled through Montana.

Enjoy Wildlife Viewing

The monument provides habitat for bighorn sheep, elk, mule deer, pronghorn, coyotes, eagles, hawks, and numerous bird species. Wildlife viewing opportunities can be found along river corridors, prairie landscapes, and rugged canyon terrain.

Experience Primitive Camping and Backcountry Exploration

Visitors seeking solitude can enjoy dispersed camping, backcountry hiking, hunting, fishing, and exploring remote portions of the monument. The vast landscape offers exceptional opportunities to experience Montana's open spaces and natural beauty.

Capture Spectacular Photography

The monument's colorful badlands, sandstone formations, river corridors, and expansive prairie vistas make it a favorite destination for photographers. Sunrise and sunset often provide especially dramatic lighting conditions.

Top Trails

Hole-in-the-Wall Trail

Length: Approximately 0.5 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: Minimal
Difficulty: Easy

This short interpretive trail leads visitors to a natural sandstone arch and provides views of the surrounding Missouri River Breaks landscape. Informational signs explain the area's geology and cultural history.

Woodhawk Ridge Trail

Length: Approximately 1 mile round trip
Elevation Gain: Moderate
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

The trail climbs to a scenic overlook featuring panoramic views of the Upper Missouri River, surrounding badlands, and expansive prairie landscapes.

Decision Point Overlook Trail

Length: Approximately 0.3 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: Minimal
Difficulty: Easy

This short walk leads to an overlook associated with the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Visitors can view the area where the expedition faced important navigational decisions during its journey west.

Slippery Ann Elk Viewing Area Trails

Length: Multiple short walking routes
Elevation Gain: Minimal
Difficulty: Easy

Located within the monument region, these trails provide opportunities to observe elk, especially during the autumn rut season when bugling bulls are often active in the area.

Missouri River Shoreline Routes

Length: Varies by destination
Elevation Gain: Minimal to Moderate
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Numerous informal routes along the river corridor allow visitors to explore historic campsites, geological formations, wildlife habitat, and scenic overlooks while experiencing the monument's rugged beauty.

Sources: Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service, Montana Office of Tourism, and Wikipedia

This article uses material from the Wikipedia article "Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument", which is released under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share-Alike License 3.0